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Rollerization

Keep in mind that is the torque using the specified tool. Not the actual tension on the belt.

Not sure if it is new or used. That being said I just use the 90° twist at the 1/2 way method an not any special tool or toque vale. Have done that with a used and new belt and never had an issue. This is one of those don’t over think it things. It’s a belt. Tension is only to make sure it does not slip but I know you are more than capable to tension a belt so I am preaching to the choir on this one.
 
Keep in mind that is the torque using the specified tool. Not the actual tension on the belt.

Not sure if it is new or used. That being said I just use the 90° twist at the 1/2 way method an not any special tool or toque vale. Have done that with a used and new belt and never had an issue. This is one of those don’t over think it things. It’s a belt. Tension is only to make sure it does not slip but I know you are more than capable to tension a belt so I am preaching to the choir on this one.


Agree, I've been using the 90 degree twist myself. I have the tensioning tool, but without the values I've never used it. With those torque numbers, I probably won't ever use that special tool.
 
Agree, I've been using the 90 degree twist myself. I have the tensioning tool, but without the values I've never used it. With those torque numbers, I probably won't ever use that special tool.

I would not be surprised that that torque value is correct. If you look how that tool works it applies force on the upper pulley to push it up from a lever using rotation. Take a lot of torque to push that pulley up with a lever.

All that being said the 90° twist works just as well.
 
Agreed. Take a look at the Breva 1100 service manual in the downloads, page 85. When these CARC bikes came out that was what we had to go by. It also mentions different torque values for new and used belts.
 
Agreed. Take a look at the Breva 1100 service manual in the downloads, page 85. When these CARC bikes came out that was what we had to go by. It also mentions different torque values for new and used belts.

John, not seeing it in the manual in the downloads section. Assuming there is only one but there is no page 85 per-say as it is in sections. Maybe I am missing it. That being said I did find the torque value in that manual and it is still listed as 50Nm.

Upload 2018 1 27 10 42 12


The later model manuals for the Breva also have it listed at 50 Nm.


Upload 2018 1 27 10 42 42
 

John that is an interesting document but it it not the workshop/service manual. Looks like it is a presentation that is given to techs using the workshop manual as a reference. I have seen this before for the 8V engines. Just the basics and not a lot of specifics. I see where it says there is a different torque to new and old but I would suspect it to be minimal and most likely irrelevant at least in my experience since the newer manuals do not spec that. I would go by the actual workshop manual for the Breva1100.

https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/resources/breva-1100-workshop-manual.27/
 
Hi Folks,
I am getting and will be installing the B type kit on my 2010 Stelvio.
Is there a DIY vid or description avaliable for the install?
 
I use Service Communication #2009-003 USA Technical Update Campaign.
This goes back to w/we were changing all the new & sold bikes w/flatties, We also timed the procedure for warranty payout.
For roller specific it's Technical Bulletin #002, 004, 006-2014. 004 is in color and tells you how to know what kit to get.
CAUTION: There's no pretty pic of Pete in them.
 
Update on my 2010 Stelvio flat tappet issue: I spoke to Cycles of Jacksonville and they seemed to be familiar with the problem. I trailered my bike 4 1/2 hours and spoke to the mechanic. I still had to explain that the cam box had to come out to do the actual inspection and I showed him this thread. They pulled the cam box and send me these pictures. Bear in mind my bike only has 4500 miles on it! The dealer is filing a claim with Piaggio and hopefully they will step up to the plate. Screen Shot 2018 03 06 at 90322 PM Screen Shot 2018 03 06 at 90333 PM Screen Shot 2018 03 06 at 90341 PM Screen Shot 2018 03 06 at 90349 PM
 
Assuming u mean 0.15 and 0.20mm. That will work as will 0.10 and 0.15mm. I read your post on WG. What valve rubber seal are u referring to that blew off.

Did u verify that the timing is correct at each TDC. Each cylinder must be at its own TDC on compression to check valves and the position of the pins.

As John has stated you most likely jumped some teeth on the crank. You need to verify that before you do anything else and before we can help more. If the timing is off does not matter what else u do. It will not fire.
Hello,
I've just rollerized my Norge 2011. All seems run well, I set the valves clearance gaps at 0.15 and 0.20mm but someone talks to change these value after rollerization using new values 0.004" and 0.006" (0.10 and 0.15mm).
Please, which are the correct valves clearance gaps after the rollerization? I'm a little confused.
Moreover after, the rolerization, the engine power and torque curves change?
 
Hello,
I've just rollerized my Norge 2011. All seems run well, I set the valves clearance gaps at 0.15 and 0.20mm but someone talks to change these value after rollerization using new values 0.004" and 0.006" (0.10 and 0.15mm).
Please, which are the correct valves clearance gaps after the rollerization? I'm a little confused.
Moreover after, the rolerization, the engine power and torque curves change?
There's a whole lot of information on that subject here:


I don't think there's anything new since then.

Good luck!

Lannis
 
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