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Clutch slipping...

ah ah ah I wonder why moto guzzi doesn't sell much.... the Dealers SUCK !!

I called 2 dealers in my area :

Moto Guzzi Brooklyn and MG New heaven CT , they BOTH could not get a clutch set up..... i was told it would have been a "special order>>>bla bla bla....

They are exactly like HD dealer.... they just sell T SHIRTS !!

Anyway... got my stuff off MGcycle.... is going to be a busy week end for me... :D

ciao !
Marco
 
Ouch, I see what you mean Marco.
I had a look at the link ,re RAM clutch at MG cycle, $600 is a lot.I paid £250 ,but it was a long time ago.
Imagine how much a complete standard clutch/flywheel assembly from a stealer would cost,at the time when I bought mine it was slightly more than double.
I found the worse part of the job was getting the drive shaft splines re,engaged when re fitting the swinging arm, I struggled for about 1/2 hour,then inexplicably it just popped in,three months later I had to repeat the job when my gearselector return spring failed,and it was a repeat performance,fidled for 1/2 ,then it just popped in.
Come to think of it,might be an idea to change the return spring ?
What does the the panel think ?
Cheers
Lee
 
On the shift return spring since it is an 80s bike, I'd sy run it. 70s bike only had a single loop spring which was subject to failure, by 1980, a double loop spring was used which is much more reliable. If he had to go into the transmission for another reason, I'd say yes, but since he doesn't need to open the case I'd say no.
 
john zibell said:
On the shift return spring since it is an 80s bike, I'd sy run it. 70s bike only had a single loop spring which was subject to failure, by 1980, a double loop spring was used which is much more reliable. If he had to go into the transmission for another reason, I'd say yes, but since he doesn't need to open the case I'd say no.


John , glad to hear that i can leave the trans alone.... i would rather take care of it next winter.... :D

guys, thank you all for the advice...highly appreciate

Marco
I will let you know how it will go.... fingers crossed...
 
...OK
After 3 hours of work...here i am .... ready to "crab" the frame and pull the trans.
btw, when i pulled the starter i could see lot of oil all around, so def. the reason why the clutch was slipping is oil contamination.
Tomorrow i will now from where is leaking engine or trans.
I am happy i did it because i am going to bring the swing arm to the powdercoater.... and i am going to replace the bearing too.
Here is a pic taken with my phone, yeah the quality of the pic sucks but it shows that a newby in the guzzi world can do it ....saving lot of money and having some fun too
I am just hoping the parts will come in by friday or saturday... so sunday i will be out riding...

thanks for your help and support, i will post more pics of the job later... time to go to bed...

Marco.
 

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ok, i got the gearbox out....and guess what ?

please check the pics, i see the throw out bearings are "gone" and i see a lot of oil coming from( i think ) the pushrod, but let me know if i am wrong.

I am going to replace the transmission input and out put seals. I got the new throw out bearings.
I don't know what's going on on the other side of the flywheel because i don't know " how to unscrew the 8 bolts" ?
The wheel keeps turning.....what should i do to keep it from turning while unscrewing the bolts ? :?:

Please check the pics and tell me if you see something that i oversight ....

thanks
Marco
 

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more pics...
 

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Guzzi makes a holding tool that in on direction holds the ring gear, then you flip it over and it holds the flywheel. It isn't than expensive. This one from MG cycle is similar and will do the job. http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=332 Once you get the ring gear off and the clutch assembly you should see a dab of white pain on the end of the crank shaft. This dab of paint aligns to the arrow on the flywheel. On assembly, you will also see a round dot impression on one of the teeth of the pressure plate. That dot aligns to the arrow on the flywheel so the spring recesses line up. A trick I use since the engine isn't on it's nose is to place a small dab of RTV on each spring as I set it into the flywheel. That will hold them in place until the pressure plate is installed. Crank down on the pressure plate with the special tool from MG and assemble the clutch. Then bolt up the ring gear. I believe the torque for the flywheel and ring gear bolts is 25 lb-ft. You can check a workshop manual to be sure.

BTW, with the new pictures I see you have a Bub sump on the bike, remove it and throw it away. The internal lines can fail leading to loss of oil pressure. Search around for a stock pan. If you must have an external oil filter, use the kit from Harper's.
 
john zibell said:
Guzzi makes a holding tool that in on direction holds the ring gear, then you flip it over and it holds the flywheel. It isn't than expensive. This one from MG cycle is similar and will do the job. http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=332 Once you get the ring gear off and the clutch assembly you should see a dab of white pain on the end of the crank shaft. This dab of paint aligns to the arrow on the flywheel. On assembly, you will also see a round dot impression on one of the teeth of the pressure plate. That dot aligns to the arrow on the flywheel so the spring recesses line up. A trick I use since the engine isn't on it's nose is to place a small dab of RTV on each spring as I set it into the flywheel. That will hold them in place until the pressure plate is installed. Crank down on the pressure plate with the special tool from MG and assemble the clutch. Then bolt up the ring gear. I believe the torque for the flywheel and ring gear bolts is 25 lb-ft. You can check a workshop manual to be sure.

BTW, with the new pictures I see you have a Bub sump on the bike, remove it and throw it away. The internal lines can fail leading to loss of oil pressure. Search around for a stock pan. If you must have an external oil filter, use the kit from Harper's.

John,
Thanks for the Info... and tips ;)
about the oil pan, yeah i've heard about the hoses.... do you know if the guzzis oil pan fit every model ? i mean will a pan from a Eldo or a T fit my 1000 sp ?

thanks
Marco

Ok i see that the early eldo pan won't fit my bike... maybe the T T3 model?
has to be like this one , am i correct ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Moto-Guzzi-sump ... 500wt_1202
 
ARVENO said:
John,

Ok i see that the early eldo pan won't fit my bike... maybe the T T3 model?
has to be like this one , am i correct ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Moto-Guzzi-sump ... 500wt_1202

Yes, that one will fit, T-3 and newer Tonti bikes. If you can get a sump spacer as well, so much the better. Also the deep EV style pan will work. Just be sure you have the correct bolts for installation. If you use a sump spacer, installation will require two gaskets. Use the original oil quantity specification and don't add more oil. The purpose of the deeper pan is to keep oil from being dragged around by the crankshaft.
 
ARVENO said:
John,


Ok i see that the early eldo pan won't fit my bike... maybe the T T3 model?
has to be like this one , am i correct ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Moto-Guzzi-sump ... 500wt_1202

john zibell said:
Yes, that one will fit, T-3 and newer Tonti bikes. If you can get a sump spacer as well, so much the better. Also the deep EV style pan will work. Just be sure you have the correct bolts for installation. If you use a sump spacer, installation will require two gaskets. Use the original oil quantity specification and don't add more oil. The purpose of the deeper pan is to keep oil from being dragged around by the crankshaft.


John , I would love to use the deep EV style pan but ...it goes for 600 bucks ! :(
I have two options :

Get the original pan, then when i'll have some money saved get the spacer with extenal oil filter , or keep the bub pan , replace the hoses....save money and get the EV.

I will see what my wallet will suggest LOL !! :lol:

I ordered the tool "flywheel and ring gear holding " .

thanks again
Marco
 
I don't know of any good hoses to put in the Bub pan so I'd really think long and hard before that option.
 
john zibell said:
I don't know of any good hoses to put in the Bub pan so I'd really think long and hard before that option.

yeah , rebuild an engine is way more expensive so better don't risk it...

i just found locally an original pan and spacer 200 bucks :D ...problem solved... :mrgreen:
 
ARVENO said:
john zibell said:
I don't know of any good hoses to put in the Bub pan so I'd really think long and hard before that option.

yeah , rebuild an engine is way more expensive so better don't risk it...

i just found locally an original pan and spacer 200 bucks :D ...problem solved... :mrgreen:

Don't forget a set of longer screws and bolts, plus two gaskets. Hopefully they came with the pan and spacer.
 
...sorry about the "stupid" question but does the oil filter part # 14153000 fit the original oil sump ?
thanks
Marco

btw can i get an oil filter from an autopart ?
 
contractor20 said:
does the oil filter part # 14153000 fit the original oil sump ?
YES and there are not many other brands that make this size (only HiFlo as far as I know #HF552 and UFI #2314900).
I have never seen either of these two in an auto parts shop ;)



I got 2 UFI filters...

thanks
M.
 
ARVENO said:
more pics...


Hello guys,i have received the clutch and hub, tomorrow i am going to get the rest,
i got 2 questions :

1)Does the nut which old the clutch hub left thread ? i mean, to unscrew it , do i have to turn it clock wise or counter clock wise ?
I am asking because is not mentioned in the manual and before to do any damage...i wanna make sure...


2) if the throw out bearing breaks, will the oil goes through the pushrod contaminating the clutch ? or the clutch seal will keep the oil from getting on the clutch ?

I will get the tool which old the flywheel tomorrow so i didn't have the opportunity to see if i am getting oil from the engine main seal... but i have the feeling , judging by the oil color , i was getting oil from the push rod.

thanks a lot
Marco
 
ok, I got it,
i've got the hub off , yes the oil is coming from the trans seal..behind the clutch hub.

Before replacing seal and o ring and putting the new clutch hub back...is there any kind of silicone/sealant should i use to be sure it won't leak again ?
 
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