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dashboard interference

Discussion in 'BNS12 Chat & Tech' started by Roblatt, Mar 1, 2014.

  1. tris

    tris Tuned and Synch'ed

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    I got the donor LCD out but the circuit board is proving recalcitrant - it appears to be held in the middle some how

    Any guidance on that?

    Tris

    PS thanks for the guidance - its much appreciated as it the end (if the planets align) I'll have saved a bunch of petrol money. I think I owe you a drink if you ever get over here
     
  2. Roblatt

    Roblatt High Miler

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    My bad Tris.

    I should've attached another photo,below, which shows screws that need to be removed from the front to release the circuit board. It's been such a long time it slipped my mind. The little ones around the face of the main clock From memory the larger ones hold the main casing on and you should've removed them already.

    Robert

    IMG_0536 (800x598).jpg
     
  3. tris

    tris Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Not your bad at all Robert

    I got those 4 and all the others round the perimeter out but the board wont come out with the clips pulled back

    The best I can see at the moment is the 2 tags circled below


    Capture.JPG

    They appear to go into the white casing and have no electrical function despite being soldered to the board :worried::worried:

    It may not be this and I'm missing something simple, but I'm buggered if I can see it yet :cry:
     
  4. Roblatt

    Roblatt High Miler

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    Tris,

    I don't remember those 2 tags, just the outer clips. The picture is a little fuzzy at that point so I can't seen them clearly. On pictures I have of the circuit board, they're also fuzzy when I enlarge - it's interesting the information you wished you'd recorded at the time just so you can refer back.

    I you can wait, I'll pull my dash this weekend and report back.

    Robert
     
    tris likes this.
  5. tris

    tris Tuned and Synch'ed

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    WOW - that's above and beyond the call of duty Robert as we both know that would involve pulling the needles off with the consequent risk to the stepper motors.

    Thanks for the offer though.

    I can work around it as the only real reason to remove the board is so that I could conformally coat the back side.

    Given that I can't see any water damage, and I've already opened up the blocked vent I'll probably leave sleeping dogs alone

    Thanks for the offer though
     
  6. Kevin.NZ

    Kevin.NZ Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    Ok I have a faulty Breva dash that was given to me by James Betres from this site. I had to unsolder those 2 tags to get it fully apart and remove that circuit board. They actually go through and secure the LCD display in place, use a solder sucker or solder wick. They do not form part of the circuit and the tags are stand alone. The electronics was already damaged so it was out of interest that I took it apart.
    Kevin
     
  7. Kevin.NZ

    Kevin.NZ Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    Also be very careful with disconnecting/connecting the ribbon cable at the bottom left. To remove it push the black retaining strip forward (1mm) using a toothpick or similar at each end of the brown connector.
     
  8. tris

    tris Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Cheers Kevin
    1) I think that reinforces my thoughts to leave the board in situ ...... unless I find I've FURBARed the stepper motors that is ;)
    2) I was aware of that ...... somehow!
     
  9. Roblatt

    Roblatt High Miler

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    Kevin,

    I definantely did not need to solder suck those 2 tabs, that much I know as I don't have a solder sucker. I remember mine just came apart easily.

    Tris,

    No probs, if you do need me to strip it down, I can strip and rebuild in about 20 minutes - sad isn't it?

    Robert
     
  10. tris

    tris Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Its all part of the idiosyncrasies that surround Guzzi ownership;)

    Thanks though, and hopefully this time next week I'll be reporting that i now have a functioning LCD - watch this space
     
  11. tris

    tris Tuned and Synch'ed

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    IT'S ALIVE :cool::cool::cool::cool:

    I now have a dash with a functioning LCD :party::party:

    So many many thanks to you Robert :clap::clap::clap:



    I can also cast some light on the solder tag conundrum

    I've established that the LCD is back lit via a panel set into the rectangular LCD recess, and I suspect that this is supplied with juice via the 2 tags Kevin commented on

    Which means that you can take the LCD glass (a sucker means you don't need 2 pairs of hands) out without removing the circuit board and leave the back light in place
     
    roadventure likes this.
  12. Roblatt

    Roblatt High Miler

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    Good work Tris. Now re-assemble and ride!!
     
  13. tris

    tris Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Bit of a delay in responding due to "stuff" happening!!
    !!
    Still, all good after a couple of decent rides so I shall call it CURED
     

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