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dashboard interference

Discussion in 'BNS12 Chat & Tech' started by Roblatt, Mar 1, 2014.

  1. tris

    tris Tuned and Synch'ed

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    HALLELUJAH FOR THE INTERNET AND GUZZITECH

    I know its an old thread, but the Roblatt describes EXACTLY the same issue as I have on my bike - intermittent LCD plus the blocked vent

    I shall take apart the cheap dash I bought for spares before I delve further into the one on the bike and see if a straight LCD swap will fix things.

    I know Carmo can't source a replacement LCD

    If you're still out there Robblatt CHEERS :clap::clap::clap:
     
    GT-Rx® likes this.
  2. Roblatt

    Roblatt High Miler

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    Tris,

    The LCD screens are no longer available, lucky you have a spare. They are just unplug the old and plug in the new once the dash is apart. The dash takes about 15 minutes to remove, strip, rebuild and replace on the bike (but then again I've stripped mine out many times with trial and error rebuilds.

    Let me know if you get stuck.

    cheers

    Robert
     
  3. tris

    tris Tuned and Synch'ed

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    I might just take you up on that Rob :clap:

    As an aside, I know the spare dash without its codes wont start the bike, but will the LCD light up and do its stuff?

    The spare was was only a 27 pound investment and I was told that the LCD worked but haven't tried the dash on the bike yet.

    Even if it doesn't work, Christmas wont need to be cancelled, but it would be nice to know before surgery commences ;)
     
  4. Roblatt

    Roblatt High Miler

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    Tris,

    The LCD screen should work once you swap them. It's just plug in screen. If you were replacing any of the computer processors it might be a different story.

    From memory, when you get to unplugging the LCD, there is a thin white plastic bar that runs along the length of the plug, this is used to wedge the plug in place - don't lose it.

    cheers

    Robert
     
  5. tris

    tris Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Sorry Robert I didn't make myself clear.
    If I do no more than unplug the existing dash from the bike and plug the spare in and turn the ignition on, will the LCD light up or does the imobiliser get in the way?
    If it does at least I know I have a good LCD before starting to take it things apart
    Cheers
    Tris
     
  6. Roblatt

    Roblatt High Miler

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    Tris,

    If I understand your question, then provided that only the original LCD screen is faulty, once you plug the new LCD in, all should work normally. The dashboard does need to be plugged into the bike when testing the new screen so I think the answer you seek is the imobiliser won't play a part in what you are doing.

    If you are asking whether plugging in the whole spare dash to see if the LCD works, then I have no answer for you. My expertise here is not electrical but many trials and errors resulting in a bank of knowledge. It's easy to swap the dash over, just plug in the new dash and see what happens, the LCD should do something I'd imagine. - 5 minute job at most.

    Hopefully one of the above answers your question.

    regards

    Robert
     
  7. tris

    tris Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Cheers Robert

    Its the 2nd option

    I don't suppose it will be a problem so, I'll just plug in the replacement into the bike over Christmas and see if the LCD lights up

    I'll report back once I see what happens

    Thanks for your input

    tris
     
  8. roadventure

    roadventure High Miler GT Famiglia

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    There is a U.S. address? Really?

    Well, I searched and they DO have a California address. That would have possible saved $$ over shipping to The Netherlands....

    (just sent a dash off to them).
     
  9. tris

    tris Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Just connecting the replacement clocks and switching on the ignition causes the gauges to sweep and the LCD to light up and ask for a code

    The rainbow of LEDs didnt light up, but that might be why it was cheap!

    I dont have the code, but the great news is that I have a viable LCD to transplant :party::party::party:
     
  10. Roblatt

    Roblatt High Miler

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    Good news Tris. It's an easy procedure. Sing out if you need help.
    Also, if the clocks did the sweep as normal on the donor dash, keep it for spares because the stepper motors on the speedo and tacho can fail. Mine did when I road in 48C heat along with the lcd. The steppers are interchangable between tacho and speedo - not the fuel gauge.

    Robert
     
  11. tris

    tris Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Well surgery commenced last night on the donor dash

    The chrome part came straight off rapidly followed by all the screws but then progress stopped

    It looks like the lens has been sealed all the way around in place using silicone.

    Consequently I can't budge it with out significant force and I suspect I'll break something if I do

    So the question is

    a) Is the silicone normally there or is it an attempt to seal the dash up in the past?

    b) Will a silicone remover as you might use in the bathroom fog the lens

    All thoughts appreciated
     
  12. john zibell

    john zibell Moderator Staff Member GT Famiglia

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    Try a single edge razor blade around the perimeter of the lens. It may be thin enough to cut through without damage to the lens.
     
  13. tris

    tris Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Cheers John
    I had considered one of the more radical techniques recommended for the clocks on my old Cali where you slice them in half to fix them!

    Hopefully it wont come to that!

    PS
    3M have just confirmed to me that their "silicone eater" will haze some plastics so that option is out I suspect for all of them
    However the internet describes yet another miraculous use for WD40 so I shall probably add that to the arsenal!
    It doesn't eat the silicone rather release its grip on whatever it's stuck to!
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2019
  14. Roblatt

    Roblatt High Miler

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    Mine had some silicon but it came off easily. When I re assembled it all, I cleaned off the silicon and left off the rubber seal around the water canal. I've found that the extra airflow generated stops any condensation in its tracks. After several years, no condensation, and I'm an all weather rider. Also, once you've got it apart, scrape of any corrosion on the circuit board (gently) and spray the entire board back and front with a circuit board sealant. It will prevent future corrosion.

    Robert
     
  15. tris

    tris Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Cheers Rob

    They'll succumb at some point!
     
  16. tris

    tris Tuned and Synch'ed

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    I'm IN!!

    a) The vent behind the LCD is definitely blocked. I wonder how many people have been forced to shell out a bunch of money fixing a problem caused by a poor plastic molding :rolleyes::rolleyes:

    b) I can see why the LCD cable can be a problem - if the tight bend doesn't get it then getting pinched between the circuit board and the casing would. A couple of millimeters more clearance would probably have fixed both problems!

    Next step, do it all again with the clocks on the bike :sweating:
     
  17. tris

    tris Tuned and Synch'ed

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    I've now now got both dashes apart and the LCDs both unplugged but am struggling to get the LCD out of the casing.

    Is there a trick or do i just need 4 hands??

    Cheers
     
  18. Roblatt

    Roblatt High Miler

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    Tris,

    It's been a while since I've stripped mine down but attached are photos that show tabs that need to be carefully undone to remove first the circuit board, then the LCD. Careful not to break them.

    Robert


    IMG_0536 (800x598).jpg IMG_0548 (800x598).jpg
     
  19. tris

    tris Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Hence in part the question Robert!!

    They appear to be made from "break as soon as you touch me plastic"

    However you say "remove first the circuit board, then the LCD"

    Does that mean that there is access to push the LCD from the back once I get the main circuit board out of the way?

    At the moment, I can't yet see how to move the LCD to get it clear of the clips without levering on it,which I REALLY don't want to do
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2019
  20. Roblatt

    Roblatt High Miler

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    Tris,

    If I remember correctly, the circuit board doesn't need to be removed, but it's a good idea to remove it and spray with circuit board sealer (I don't know it's correct name) while you're in there so no damage is done by humidity over time.

    Those clips need to be pulled back as they hold the LCD in place. I used fine blade to gently lift the screen at each clip one at the time. Pull the clip back just far enough so that it sits on the edge of the screen, then work on the next clip and the next and so on. I found the clips on the general dash assembly were fragile but the ones on the LCD OK to work with (I broke several clips on the general dash and non that retain the LCD), still care is needed as you may not have the same luck as I did,

    Practice on the donor dash so any damage won't be as upsetting. I don't know if it will work, try plugging the new LCD in and fire up the dash, then you'll know whether to risk damage on the old dash. Just a thought.

    Robert
     

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