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New suspension for my Norge

FWIW: installing the new springs in the front forks was a piece of cake. Once I got everything apart, I loostened the top cap, finished removing the fork and then took the cap the rest of the way off over a drain pan. I should also say that I backed off the preload as far as it would go prior to this. Pumping the fork over the drain pan gets all the old fluid out. You can put it all back together and get the top cap started by hand. Put it back in the tripple clamp, tighten the cap, then adjust the fork in the tripple clamp to its correct position. I measured how much was sticking out the top before I took them out in the first place. It really was that easy.

Zoom Zoom,
John Henry
 
RJVB mentions the ball bearing. That will happen if you run the knob out counter clockwise. I recomend against that. By running the knob all the way in, and then just removing the big plastic portion using the screw in the middle, you will not need to worry about the mechanism coming apart.

Zoom Zoom,
John Henry

BTW: That screw was loctited in or had a dab of glue or something. Make sure you use a phillips with a very good tip so you do not strip the screw head.
 
I have done many forks and removal of the Norge forks was easy. I change fork oil on my bikes every 2 years and my PC800 is like the Norge where you have no drain holes. I would have changed the springs myself but I wanted the PD valve kit installed by someone who had done it before. My forks were all the way up in the clamps but I may put them even with the middle groove to slow the steering down just a bit.

Thanks for the heads up on the clicker ball. I can see it travelling across the garage floor now if I did not know.

Rudy
 
After almost 5 weeks of my Norge tying up my rack with the forks off I now have the forks rebuilt with the PD kit, HyperPro fork springs and 15wt fork oil set up by Todd and a HyperPro shock installed. The shock installation was easier then expected thanks to the tips given to me here on the list. First the tip on the screw removal was great. I have a small butane torch that has a fine small flame that worked great for heating the screw and a Kowa T-handle #2 screwdriver that fit the screw perfectly.

I screwed it in all the way first then it came off fairly easily. Yes, watch out for the little ball to pop out. Even watching for it I had to catch it as it hit the rack. Maybe a towel in a cookie sheet below it to catch it so it doesn’t bounce.

I would like to suggest that when removing the shock you remove the drain hose from the air box. This gives you just enough room to remove the shock. You just rotate the shock not quite 180 degrees with the knob side facing the other way. Kick the bottom out to the side opposite the muffler and it came out fairly easily. I greased everything and reassembled.

One thing I noticed is the seat height is slightly higher now. I have not been able to ride it yet (20 degrees out) so no idea on the change.
 
abbienormal wrote:
After almost 5 weeks of my Norge tying up my rack with the forks off I now have the forks rebuilt with the PD kit, HyperPro fork springs and 15wt fork oil set up by Todd and a HyperPro shock installed. The shock installation was easier then expected thanks to the tips given to me here on the list. First the tip on the screw removal was great. I have a small butane torch that has a fine small flame that worked great for heating the screw and a Kowa T-handle #2 screwdriver that fit the screw perfectly.

I screwed it in all the way first then it came off fairly easily. Yes, watch out for the little ball to pop out. Even watching for it I had to catch it as it hit the rack. Maybe a towel in a cookie sheet below it to catch it so it doesn’t bounce.

I would like to suggest that when removing the shock you remove the drain hose from the air box. This gives you just enough room to remove the shock. You just rotate the shock not quite 180 degrees with the knob side facing the other way. Kick the bottom out to the side opposite the muffler and it came out fairly easily. I greased everything and reassembled.

One thing I noticed is the seat height is slightly higher now. I have not been able to ride it yet (20 degrees out) so no idea on the change.
Click to expand...


I am about to lay up my Norge after Daytona bike week and install the front fork kit springs and custom spacer with PD valves from Todd. How did that installation go ? I believe I am OK with it until I have to start drilling holes, I would like to hear of your thoughts, tips and things not to do.


Thanks !
 
draidt wrote:
I am about to lay up my Norge after Daytona bike week and install the front fork kit springs and custom spacer with PD valves from Todd. How did that installation go ? I believe I am OK with it until I have to start drilling holes, I would like to hear of your thoughts, tips and things not to do.
Click to expand...
He shipped the forks to me for install of the valves and springs. I had to wait a few weeks for the (correctly shipped) springs, which was most of his "wait." :blush:

They are back in stock again in the U.S. for far more rapid delivery.
 
draidt wrote:
I am about to lay up my Norge after Daytona bike week and install the front fork kit springs and custom spacer with PD valves from Todd. How did that installation go ? I believe I am OK with it until I have to start drilling holes, I would like to hear of your thoughts, tips and things not to do.
Click to expand...

It is fairly easy but you will need an air gun to remove and install the nut on the bottom of the forks. Drilling the holes was easy and whole process with removal,drilling,oil and re-install took about two hours. With the front and rear springs replaced the bike handles substantially better and that is with some marginal tires.
 
Can somewone please explain what the PD valve kit is ...? Do I need to do that as well as the front fork springs...? Why...?

My Norge is not here right now, hopefully back soon but I cannot go look at it for reference.

You folks are saying that there are no drain holes for the fork oil...?

I take it the fork legs must come out of the trees to install the new springs then...? Is that a PITA...?

Anything else I need to know about the Hypro spring job..?

Mine is the late '07 build with the heavier rear shock spring.

I am about 175 pounds and we do ride this motorcycle two-up...

Thanks much,
Rob
 
radguzzi wrote:
Can somewone please explain what the PD valve kit is ...? Do I need to do that as well as the front fork springs...? Why...?
You folks are saying that there are no drain holes for the fork oil...?
I take it the fork legs must come out of the trees to install the new springs then...? Is that a PITA...?

Mine is the late '07 build with the heavier rear shock spring. I am about 175 pounds and we do ride this motorcycle two-up...
Click to expand...
Hi Rob, the PD Valve is a "cartridge emulator" that handles the compression damping, seen HERE. You do not *need* these in addition the the springs, but it helps tremendously with the "float" that it is often described. The springs are a BIG improvement on their own though.

No, no drain hole for the oil, and yes you have to pull the forks to not only change the oil, but put the springs in, as the "cap" resides under the bar risers bolted to the top triple clamp. Bit of a PITA, but if you are set up properly, not too bad at all.

At 175#, you're pushing the envelope of the stock spring with just you (add @15# avg. for gear), and if you ride two-up often, you are more then taxing the spring(s).

That help?
 
Todd,

From the valve spec: "Damping adjustable and tuneable to any application."

How are these valve's adjustable?

Tom
 
blackcat wrote:
From the valve spec: "Damping adjustable and tuneable to any application."
How are these valve's adjustable?
Click to expand...
Tom, via the spring tensioners on top of the valve, though they would have to be removed from the fork tube to do so, which on the Norge/Breva means pulled from the bike. My settings so far have been very good as installed.
 
As I mentioned before, THERE IS NO NEED TO UNSCREW THE PRELOAD KNOB ON THE REAR SHOCK. Screw it in ALL THE WAY, and then remove the phillips head screw from the middle of the knob. Pull the knob off. ONLY the knob needs to come off. No springs or bearings shooting across the floor.

Rob, front fork tubes are a piece of cake to get off and apart for fluid changes.

Zoom Zoom,
John Henry
 
I'm halfway through Todd's "Miracle Cure" as we have installed the HyperPro rear shock and we're scheduled to do front (new spring, cartridge emulator) in a few weeks. And, yes, as others have reported, the rear shock does make a Big Difference. I'm very pleased.

As others have noticed, the bike rides a bit higher - fine by me. It can be ridden more aggressively and/or with more confidence - also fine. You lose something of the "plush" ride of the original, which was fine while cruising in good roads, but discomforting in the twistier stuff.

On poor quality (broken) pavement, with the HyperPro I've noticed some "stuttering" of the rear suspension, i.e., losing surface contact. As this occurs when riding solo and not loaded, I'm thinking I should change the shock settings when 1-up. Any suggestions on this point would be appreciated.

With the front end presently in the unchanged state, there is a bit of what I'll call a "balance" issue as the front remains light (if not spongy) while the rear is firm. I expect, from talking to Todd, that I will find this resolved when the front is improved.

Interestingly, my "regular pillion" (Patti, who gets credit for the shock as an X-mas gift) reports that she can feel the difference when we're 2-up and she reports having more confidence on a variety of road types.

Bob
 
Re: Re:New suspension for my Norge

GT-Rx said:
radguzzi wrote:
Can somewone please explain what the PD valve kit is ...? Do I need to do that as well as the front fork springs...? Why...?
You folks are saying that there are no drain holes for the fork oil...?
I take it the fork legs must come out of the trees to install the new springs then...? Is that a PITA...?

Mine is the late '07 build with the heavier rear shock spring. I am about 175 pounds and we do ride this motorcycle two-up...
Click to expand...
Hi Rob, the PD Valve is a "cartridge emulator" that handles the compression damping, seen HERE. You do not *need* these in addition the the springs, but it helps tremendously with the "float" that it is often described. The springs are a BIG improvement on their own though.

No, no drain hole for the oil, and yes you have to pull the forks to not only change the oil, but put the springs in, as the "cap" resides under the bar risers bolted to the top triple clamp. Bit of a PITA, but if you are set up properly, not too bad at all.

At 175#, you're pushing the envelope of the stock spring with just you (add @15# avg. for gear), and if you ride two-up often, you are more then taxing the spring(s).

That help?
Click to expand...

Resurrecting an old thread here but I just purchased a very nice 07 Norge it came with a hyperpro rear shock which probably needs adjusting and a set of front springs not yet installed, do you have to remove the forks to install the front springs or just take the bar risers off the top and leave the forks in place. Do the springs install with the progressive (tighter coils) down or up? Thanks
David
 
Take the forks off, it's real easy. If you have any reason not to use the hyperpro front spring, such as the guy you bought the bike from weighed more or less than you, I would sell them and get the Matris Norge fork kit. These things are amazing. Transforms the bikes handling. Rock solid through turns with bumps.
 
Rafael said:
Take the forks off, it's real easy. If you have any reason not to use the hyperpro front spring, such as the guy you bought the bike from weighed more or less than you, I would sell them and get the Matris Norge fork kit. These things are amazing. Transforms the bikes handling. Rock solid through turns with bumps.
Click to expand...

Yes I think thats best I should probably change the fork oil any way. Springs go with tight coils down? what about oil 10w or 15w I am a big guy and ride 2 up

Thanks
 
devildogg said:
Rafael said:
Yes I think thats best I should probably change the fork oil any way. Springs go with tight coils down? what about oil 10w or 15w I am a big guy and ride 2 up.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
How much is your total two up weight? The tight coils go upwards. If it's just springs, use 20w fork oil. Feel free to write me direct email; Todd at GuzziTech.com
 
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