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V100 Front and Rear wheel nut info

I suggest that both 65 and 30 mm sockets be fabricated with very little chamfer so that there is maximum contact between socket and nut.

Since the rear axle nut on my V85TT was grossly over tightened at the factory, my 12-point socket slipped and rounded the corners of the nut. I was able to finally get it loose by letting my heavy-duty impact wrench hammer for a long time—glad I was at home instead of beside the road. The socket had so much chamfer that it only made contact with about 1/2 the thickness of the nut. I had to grind down a 6-point impact socket to eliminate chamfer and then grind the outside enough to fit the recess in the swing arm in order to properly torque the nut after replacing the tire.
 
I like your combo socket to handle front and rear axle nuts but consider 3/4 drive.
Noted. 3/4 drive is simple enough, and adapters from 1/2 to 3/4 are easy to find. However if you take this on the bike or on a trip, remember you will need whatever size (adapter) as well.
1/2” torque wrench/ratchets can be affordably had to offer up to 250 lb.ft.
Rear nut torque is 191.7 lb.ft. -- converted from 260 NM.
A 3/4” (300#) torque ratchet on Amazon right now is ~$70+.

 
3/4” would work. I don’t relish the idea of roadside tire removal, and doubt I’d carry all the stuff to change a tire (I hope my AirMoto pump and plug kit would do me for a flat, if traveling, and lose air🙏). But, it would be nice to have at home if working on something.
 
Odd ball size is right. 1 1/8 inch too small, 1 1/4 too sloppy. I measured at 30.15mm.
 
Noted. 3/4 drive is simple enough, and adapters from 1/2 to 3/4 are easy to find. However if you take this on the bike or on a trip, remember you will need whatever size (adapter) as well.
1/2” torque wrench/ratchets can be affordably had to offer up to 250 lb.ft.
Rear nut torque is 191.7 lb.ft. -- converted from 260 NM.
A 3/4” (300#) torque ratchet on Amazon right now is ~$70+.
For those who will be purchasing one from us (GTM), what is your preferred drive size?
All things considered, id prefer 3/4”. drive provided the web of the socket is strong enough to handle that beastly torque!! 🤔😁
 
All things considered, id prefer 3/4”. drive provided the web of the socket is strong enough to handle that beastly torque!! 🤔😁
See;

 
Amazon- The socket I got is from Teng-Tools....... CR-V 65mm -- it's a 12 point. With the 1inch to 3/4 reducer, it weighs 4 pounds 4 ounces. You will need a good breaker bar and a solid grunt to break it loose. It really snaps with a good crack when it lets loose since the nut has a taper fit into the rim. My impact gun wouldn't break it.

This is not a roadside project unless you want to dedicate a saddle bag to this stuff. BMW did a nice job with their one-sided swing arm with bolts in a ring pattern so you can remove the wheel with the standard tools we all carry over the road.
This is really annoying and might just be the biggest concern I'd have over buying one of these bikes.

I have probably removed the rear wheel on my KTM in a MC shop parking lot 5 or 10 times, for tire changes. I can do it using the (cheap, small, light) tools in the supplied toolkit. The tool for my old R1100GS was bigger and heavier but still not too bad and still fitted in the toolkit. Ditto for my R80RT, Stelvio or pretty much every single other bike I've ever owned. The appropriate tool either came with the bike or was easy to aquire and carry. For my dirt bikes, I have lightweight aluminium tire levers with a ring wrench (box wrench in US) for the rear axle on one end. For the front wheel on my Tiger, I made a small, aluminium adapter, that allows me to use the rear wheel wrench on the front wheel.

I can't imagine going into any old MC shop and asking to borrow a 65mm socket and a breaker bar.

EDIT: I see there's now a tool available. I'll move over to that thread. Even with that (which is still not exactly feather-weight), you still need something to apply the huge torque required. I'd rather have a slight unsprung weight penalty of four lug bolts.
 
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The KTM 1290 GT needs 180 foot pounds as I recall and also has a monster nut.
That seems like it would also be a pain in the ass. My KTM 1290 SA has a dual-sided swingarm with a tubular through-axle and a 32mm nut on the end. I forget the torque but it's well under 100 #ft and the necessary tool is small, light, and provided in the kit that came with the bike.
 
Too much Aprilia Moto GP influence on this single nut design for quick rear wheel rim/ tire swaps. Would have been much better as a sport touring bike if they followed BMW with smaller bolts in a 5 or 6 bolt ring pattern........ Form over function but it does look really cool until you have to deal with it.
 
Pocket Socket online for purchase;

 
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