Cool, also thought it was flooding but wont my plug be wet if it was flooding? Can you or someone possibly give me some guidance to reseting the carbs example turning in all mixture screws and turning them out a certain amount etc..? What is the baseline to start with these carbs? And float heights please? Also where should i start with needle positions?
. Peter
Sounds like the electronic pickups have not been adjusted. If you say it's stock I suggest checking the timing and adjusting the pickup for that cylinder, which is likely to be off. You will need a special tool to get the rotor off if the pickup needs to be adjusted.So basically this is the 3rd set of brand new plugs and i have swapped them multiple times same prob, spark seems to be very strong when i test it by earthing to the bike.. it sparks better then my 02 Yamaha R1... And my CDI system is not new i believe the electronic ignition is standard on the MKII Guzzi? Everything on this bike is stock and OEM except the exhaust, Hooter and the New aftermarket coils i bought. I have no idea if the pickup has any adjustments i actually dont think so because a while ago i actually thought the bike had points ignition this was before i started to scratch around to try and get it running.
I think you mean to get the rotor off. You need to put that hard pin under the screw to get it off the tapered end of the crankshaft. A standard bolt cut off is too soft and may bend leaving you with a mess. The stator is just standard Allen screws.
Corrected, thanks John!
Rude to who? Who are you talking to?
Hey man why so sour? I i do have the manual printed next to me, if you read my post correctly i said the bike has been completely restored to the T according to the manual and now i have this issue so how is going back to it going to fix my problem? Thats why i came here to ask for advice.
At least your response is not lost on other members of the forum. I may contact you for (paid) help regarding a Le mans IV carb leaking.Please…
My name is not “man”. It’s Scott.
I am a professional mechanic and an expert at carburetors and I’ve been trying to help you but you just ignore what I have told you.
I’m not sour, I’m getting irritated at your obstinate laziness. However, I will try again to get through to you.
You’re not “asking for advice”. You’re asking for information you have right in front of your own eyes!
Literally every specification for setup is written right there. You are obviously refusing to read.
Yet you ask for the information again and again!
“Can someone give me the float levels and idle/mix screws adjustments please”
“Can you or someone possibly give me some guidance to reseting the carbs example turning in all mixture screws and turning them out a certain amount etc..? What is the baseline to start with these carbs? And float heights please?”
It’s RIGHT THERE!
Idle screw opening = 1 1/2 turns
Taper Needle = E 2 (2nd notch)
Float Height = 23.5mm
You are being dense as lead here and it’s exasperating.
You have been told repeatedly that in an otherwise competent engine, there are only 2 components needed to operate, fuel and spark. You’ve verified competence in the engine with your compression test, so…here we go again…
If you have spark, then you have no fuel.
Your bone dry plug CONFIRMS this. Did you get down and smell the exhaust like I wrote? Nope. However it would also confirm fuel starvation as well.
Bottom Line: You didn’t properly disassemble and clean the carburetor parts and/or internal passageways.
Spraying a can of carburetor cleaner on it, is not going to get the carburetors clean.
Take the carbs out. They need to be soaked in a solvent bath, preferably electrostatic cleaning. Most likely an internal passageway is plugged.
Take every brass jet and put it in a dish of white vinegar with a little salt added. Soak them for a half hour and toothbrush them completely clean. Use a fine wire to ensure the jets are clean.
As you disassemble, use a magnifying glass and confirm your component orifice sizes stamped on them to the specifications in your manual.
The internal passageways of the carburetor body itself, are most likely blocked, which is why I said that the carburetor bodies need to be put into an electrostatic cleaning chamber and allowed to vibrate for an hour or so to loosen and dissolve the contamination inside.
Once again, this is the answer but I am not sure you will hear it again.
Hopefully you can hear and understand me now. This will solve your problem.
I know that removing the carbs and taking them back apart is not what you want to hear or do, but there is no other way to fix this fuel starvation.
Only you can actually do the work for yourself.
Best Wishes and Good Luck!
View attachment 26774
Ok "Scott", Please understand that i am not a Mechanic and i do have a full time job so i am not "lazy" i just cant spend 9 Hours a day figuring out whats wrong with my bike like you and also dont have the knowledge you have as a Mechanic. I think we started off on the wrong foot here. I will strip my carbs tonight and post some pics. The carbs has be chemically cleaned etc when the bike was restored.Please…
My name is not “man”. It’s Scott.
I am a professional mechanic and an expert at carburetors and I’ve been trying to help you but you just ignore what I have told you.
I’m not sour, I’m getting irritated at your obstinate laziness. However, I will try again to get through to you.
You’re not “asking for advice”. You’re asking for information you have right in front of your own eyes!
Literally every specification for setup is written right there. You are obviously refusing to read.
Yet you ask for the information again and again!
“Can someone give me the float levels and idle/mix screws adjustments please”
“Can you or someone possibly give me some guidance to reseting the carbs example turning in all mixture screws and turning them out a certain amount etc..? What is the baseline to start with these carbs? And float heights please?”
It’s RIGHT THERE!
Idle screw opening = 1 1/2 turns
Taper Needle = E 2 (2nd notch)
Float Height = 23.5mm
You are being dense as lead here and it’s exasperating.
You have been told repeatedly that in an otherwise competent engine, there are only 2 components needed to operate, fuel and spark. You’ve verified competence in the engine with your compression test, so…here we go again…
If you have spark, then you have no fuel.
Your bone dry plug CONFIRMS this. Did you get down and smell the exhaust like I wrote? Nope. However it would also confirm fuel starvation as well.
Bottom Line: You didn’t properly disassemble and clean the carburetor parts and/or internal passageways.
Spraying a can of carburetor cleaner on it, is not going to get the carburetors clean.
Take the carbs out. They need to be soaked in a solvent bath, preferably electrostatic cleaning. Most likely an internal passageway is plugged.
Take every brass jet and put it in a dish of white vinegar with a little salt added. Soak them for a half hour and toothbrush them completely clean. Use a fine wire to ensure the jets are clean.
As you disassemble, use a magnifying glass and confirm your component orifice sizes stamped on them to the specifications in your manual.
The internal passageways of the carburetor body itself, are most likely blocked, which is why I said that the carburetor bodies need to be put into an electrostatic cleaning chamber and allowed to vibrate for an hour or so to loosen and dissolve the contamination inside.
Once again, this is the answer but I am not sure you will hear it again.
Hopefully you can hear and understand me now. This will solve your problem.
I know that removing the carbs and taking them back apart is not what you want to hear or do, but there is no other way to fix this fuel starvation.
Only you can actually do the work for yourself.
Best Wishes and Good Luck!
View attachment 26774
Please…
My name is not “man”. It’s Scott.
I am a professional mechanic and an expert at carburetors and I’ve been trying to help you but you just ignore what I have told you.
I’m not sour, I’m getting irritated at your obstinate laziness. However, I will try again to get through to you.
You’re not “asking for advice”. You’re asking for information you have right in front of your own eyes!
Literally every specification for setup is written right there. You are obviously refusing to read.
Yet you ask for the information again and again!
“Can someone give me the float levels and idle/mix screws adjustments please”
“Can you or someone possibly give me some guidance to reseting the carbs example turning in all mixture screws and turning them out a certain amount etc..? What is the baseline to start with these carbs? And float heights please?”
It’s RIGHT THERE!
Idle screw opening = 1 1/2 turns
Taper Needle = E 2 (2nd notch)
Float Height = 23.5mm
You are being dense as lead here and it’s exasperating.
You have been told repeatedly that in an otherwise competent engine, there are only 2 components needed to operate, fuel and spark. You’ve verified competence in the engine with your compression test, so…here we go again…
If you have spark, then you have no fuel.
Your bone dry plug CONFIRMS this. Did you get down and smell the exhaust like I wrote? Nope. However it would also confirm fuel starvation as well.
Bottom Line: You didn’t properly disassemble and clean the carburetor parts and/or internal passageways.
Spraying a can of carburetor cleaner on it, is not going to get the carburetors clean.
Take the carbs out. They need to be soaked in a solvent bath, preferably electrostatic cleaning. Most likely an internal passageway is plugged.
Take every brass jet and put it in a dish of white vinegar with a little salt added. Soak them for a half hour and toothbrush them completely clean. Use a fine wire to ensure the jets are clean.
As you disassemble, use a magnifying glass and confirm your component orifice sizes stamped on them to the specifications in your manual.
The internal passageways of the carburetor body itself, are most likely blocked, which is why I said that the carburetor bodies need to be put into an electrostatic cleaning chamber and allowed to vibrate for an hour or so to loosen and dissolve the contamination inside.
Once again, this is the answer but I am not sure you will hear it again.
Hopefully you can hear and understand me now. This will solve your problem.
I know that removing the carbs and taking them back apart is not what you want to hear or do, but there is no other way to fix this fuel starvation.
Only you can actually do the work for yourself.
Best Wishes and Good Luck!
Oh and i did smell the linked exhaust which smells exactly the same as expected?
For what it's worth, that's a different bike. Electronic pickups on (stock) V50ii need to be adjusted. Specs/tolerances in the manual...
I wouldn't take it personally, Dronk. Scott has a habit of voicing his frustration on new people. I've been here just a few years and I've seen it multiple times. It's not personal, it's more "categorical". Scott does this FOR A LIVING and gets frustrated when discussing repairs/maint with people who DON'T DO THIS FOR A LIVING. I guess you will have to decide if the advice is good enough to take the abuse.
