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V50 mk2 Running on 1 cylinder Please help please

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What does concern me is your fuel stop needle. That thing is absolutely filthy. You need to meticulously clean that puppy with the vinegar and a little metal polish on a cotton swab or soft towel. Then, you need to put some metal polish on a cotton swab and polish the inside of the carburetor body where this fuel stop needle slides in and out. With a few dozen twists with your finger or chock it into an handheld electric drill (which is what I do) and a few other cleanings with dry clean cotton swabs, the inside should have a mirror polish to it. You need that fuel stop to move absolutely smoothly with no binding at all. If it binds in place, it will either stop the fuel from flowing into the bowl, or stop the floats from reseating it to shut the fuel off!

20220927 214945
 
Look how good they look so far...


I wil definitely polish float needle and the chamber with cotton bud
 

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Question, the screw marked D in the manual is that also 1 1/2 turns out?


Sorry if im asking a obvious question or missed it, information might be infront of me again and im just being a idiot ..?


Thanks
 

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scottmastrocinque said:
What does concern me is your fuel stop needle. That thing is absolutely filthy. You need to meticulously clean that puppy with the vinegar and a little metal polish on a cotton swab or soft towel. Then, you need to put some metal polish on a cotton swab and polish the inside of the carburetor body where this fuel stop needle slides in and out. With a few dozen twists with your finger or chock it into an handheld electric drill (which is what I do) and a few other cleanings with dry clean cotton swabs, the inside should have a mirror polish to it. You need that fuel stop to move absolutely smoothly with no binding at all. If it binds in place, it will either stop the fuel from flowing into the bowl, or stop the floats from reseating it to shut the fuel off!

View attachment 26862
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DronkBergie said:
Question, the screw marked D in the manual is that also 1 1/2 turns out?


Sorry if im asking a obvious question or missed it, information might be infront of me again and im just being a idiot ..?


Thanks
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NOT AT ALL MY FRIEND! You are asking INTELLIGENT questions now. We are in the fast lane moving forward rapidly!

In this image of yours:

The idle needle is the one at the top, with the terribly thin and tiny pin at the end. This is the screw that controls the delivery of fuel at the initial starting. Make sure that it is spotlessly clean and shiny, especially at that tip but don't damage it!

It's baseline is that you seat it down, ABSOLUTELY SO GENTLY AS TO NOT DAMAGE THAT PRECISION TIP! Use, your thumb and index finger ever so softly on a tiny screwdriver, to slowly screw that into the carburetor body (you did make sure to send carburetor cleaner and compressed air throughout this orifice first!) until the needle just "seats" and you feel it have resistance as it bottoms out into the chamber. Then, look at your screwdriver, and turn it back out, 1.5 turns and stop. Do this to both carburetors the exact same.

The big chunky fat pin, is the slide pin. It control the initial opening of the slide mechanisim, (how raised it is to allow air to pass through the carburetor). You set this visually. After you assemble the carburetor, look through the venturi at the airbox side, looking through the carburetor towards the venturi on the engine side. The carburetor slide which hold the main het needle (that really long needle), you turn this chunky slide pin, into the carburetor body, until it just raises the slide enough for you to see a little light underneath the slide itself. (About 1-2mm max opening. We only open this just enough to let light pass through the carburetor body under the slide. This will allow the air flow to be just enough to get idling.

If it is too open, the carbs will allow way too much air at initial starting, for the engine to start and run properly. We will adjust that same slide pin when you balance the carburetors at idle speed, in order to get both carburetors humming at the same air velocity moving through them. Once we get this set, we then move onto the cables, to make sure that both cables are raising and lowering at the same rate, so both carburetors are doing the exact same thing at the same time!

Is this starting to make sense to you? I sure hope so.

20220927 213247



I just took this picture. The 2 top pieces are idle needles, which you see the very tiny precision tips on them.

The bottom one is an old slide needle adjuster, just like yours (without the spring on it)

IMG 8789
 
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Whoop finally🤭

I will adjust it accordingly
to your post when i get to that bugger.


Scott so every time i see something that looks abit off/dont make sense to me i get excited.


In this exploded diagram i cant see anything regarding a paper oring/washer.

I have two of them and i only remember taking out 1 as i highlighted in the pic below. But like i say i cant seem to find them in the manual mmmm.... are they supposed to be there? I have no clue where the other one came from.

I hope you are still active on here tonight as i really want to get this carb together tonight if not no problem i would rather take my time than just rush things without me knowing im doing shit wrong :D
 
@ Scott
 

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It also helps to burnish where the float needle seats. I take and taper a wood chop stick to burnish the seat. Just spin the chop stick against the seat. With clean needle and seat it should not overflow.
 
Here are my video links demonstrating basic carburetor parts cleaning techniques and helpful hints:

I hope they help you out! (Some are still processing and you will need to download them to view, or wait until the video image shows up here)



1.
 
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DronkBergie said:
Whoop finally🤭

I will adjust it accordingly
to your post when i get to that bugger.


Scott so every time i see something that looks abit off/dont make sense to me i get excited.


In this exploded diagram i cant see anything regarding a paper oring/washer.

I have two of them and i only remember taking out 1 as i highlighted in the pic below. But like i say i cant seem to find them in the manual mmmm.... are they supposed to be there? I have no clue where the other one came from.

I hope you are still active on here tonight as i really want to get this carb together tonight if not no problem i would rather take my time than just rush things without me knowing im doing shit wrong :D
Click to expand...

ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS!!!

Every cell phone these days has a digital camera. You can take tons of pictures for FREE to reference back for how you took it apart.

NEVER NEVER NEVER rely on your memory. You will screw up!

Those metal washers are usually located on fuel stop receivers, float bowl drain plugs, jets attached to the top of atomizer tubes. I will have to look up the carburetor diagram and see if I can see it as I have never had these specific carbs in my hands before. Never worked on a V50... :D

Oh, and are you feeling sufficiently "abused" by me yet? Just checking... :think: :D :p
 
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scottmastrocinque said:
I don't see the one that you talk about the o-ring missing... I wouldn't be too worried about the imprint. That shouldn't affect it as long as it goes back in the same carburetor so it matches the orifice.
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Any missing o-ring you must replace! They prevent air and/or fuel leaking. This is a basic "Must Do".
 
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