200mm width x 60% = 120mm height
180mm width x 65% = 117mm height
So the first one has a diameter that is 6mm wider.
180mm width x 65% = 117mm height
So the first one has a diameter that is 6mm wider.
-
Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
-
There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
-
Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
-
Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.
Oh No - Not Tires
- Thread starter abbienormal
- Start date
OK so if my thinking is correct, we're only talking about a 1.5mm difference on the radius, I can't see that affecting the speedo much at all ? EDIT!! wait I over did it!, 3mm on the overall height radius of the tire. So 3mm could make some (minute) difference on indicated speed
Last edited:
“So the first one has a diameter that is 6mm wider.”
Scott just PM'd you, 6mm wider or taller?
Tires sizes are ratio expressions:
200 / 60 R?? equals
200mm width / 60% the value of width in height (120mm) on a rim size of ??
180mm width / 65% the value of width in height (117mm)
So, the 200/60 is 6mm larger in DIAMETER than the 180/65.
You don’t say which is the calibrated size for the model but:
larger wheel diameter = under indicated speed
(you are traveling more distance per rotation)
standard wheel diameter = calibrated indicated
(you are traveling calibrated distance per rotation)
smaller wheel diameter = over indicated speed
(you are traveling less distance per rotation)
Last edited:
Thank You Sir
You are most welcome.
A tale of tyres. On my Eldo I have had, the original Dunlops, 2 pairs of Metzler 888's, 1 set Avon Cobra, 3 sets of Avon Cobra Chrome, now running Michelin Commander 3s, Original Dunlops 11,000kms, Metzlers around 14,000kms, Avons around 11,000kms, all were replaced as pairs, front and rear wearing at similar rates except the Michelins. Michelin Commanders front was replaced at 12,000km, (first time I have ever replaced a front tyre before the rear) could have got a bit more out of it but I was leaving on a long trip, they are now both getting close to replacement which will be around 13,000km for the front and the rear 25,000km. They keep their profiles very well and handling and feel, dry and wet, are excellent. The Metzlers always felt a bit edgy in the wet, the Avon's were excellent wet or dry, maybe have the edge when pushing very hard but the Michelin's have never given me a scary moment, I will be replacing them with another set 
Attachments
Last edited:
My CA EV1100 which weighs about 625lbs had Metzler's as stock and I replaced with same. Then I went to Bridgestone's then finalized on the current Michelin's. The better/improved tires always gave me a better confidence in the bikes handling. At the time, the ME were hard tires and they slipped more on the gravel (I live off a gravel road). I got about the same, roughly, mileage on all tires with the ME being slightly lower. I am going with the Michelins for the replacement Dunlops on my CA 1400. I have a few long distance runs in the planning and will get them now before I need them in a few months. I have been riding the CA 1400 alot these last few months despite the weather. So, for me I am looking for Michelins.
After saying I was looking for Michelins I did a search for Michelins and they do not make a "200/60R16". Did you put another size on the rear, i.e., maybe a 180/65 or other size to replace the 200? So, my CA1400 has 130/70R18 and 200/60R16. Mine is a 2014 model, but I do not know the tire sizes changed over time and/or 1400 model. So, what Michelin tires did you put on yours?A tale of tyres. On my Eldo I have had, the original Dunlops, 2 pairs of Metzler 888's, 1 set Avon Cobra, 3 sets of Avon Cobra Chrome, now running Michelin Commander 3s, Original Dunlops 11,000kms, Metzlers around 14,000kms, Avons around 11,000kms, all were replaced as pairs, front and rear wearing at similar rates except the Michelins. Michelin Commanders front was replaced at 12,000km, (first time I have ever replaced a front tyre before the rear) could have got a bit more out of it but I was leaving on a long trip, they are now both getting close to replacement which will be around 13,000km for the front and the rear 25,000km. They keep their profiles very well and handling and feel, dry and wet, are excellent. The Metzlers always felt a bit edgy in the wet, the Avon's were excellent wet or dry, maybe have the edge when pushing very hard but the Michelin's have never given me a scary moment, I will be replacing them with another set
The Eldo is a 180/65/16 standard. Some have replaced the 200 with a 180 and say it improves the handling, see Scottmastrocinque post just above mine re. tyre sizing.
I decided to stick with the the stock size for my Cali to which My Bridgestones showed up today.
Good lookin rubber. Is this a do it your self job in the garage?
Yes
I've changed out tires on my 1400's several times. I did just pick up a tire changer and we'll see if it works/makes it any easier then just using spoons and a bead breaker.
Summary:
My 2014 C14 is new to me. It is 10 years old and I got it last fall with 2000 miles on it with original rubber - 2513 and 2213 dated tires. The bike was kept inside and barely ridden. That would be 11 year old tires with now 5800 miles on the bike. I have extra options in tire brand selection if I go to a 180/65 (Michelins would be in the data set) or I can stay with 200/60 and still have great options. The tire wear looks similar to some of the pics in this thread. Now time to put in an order. Good thread from top to bottom; very helpful.
I just mounted up a set of those Exedra Max on my 1400 custom. Very nice so far.
Interesting.
For the life of me, I cannot see how this device is clamping the wheel in place to utilize the duck head. Strange indeed. I would be very wary of gouging the rim up.
These chinese tire tools are all just terrible. I do not recommend them at all but to each their own.
Another much easier, safer, and dirt cheap method is the giant zip-tie method.
Total cost, about $5.
Utilizing a pack of giant zip-ties (Harbor Freight sells them cheap) to compress and hold the sides of the tire tightly together, the tire can be easily dropped onto the rim with virtually no exertion at all and no chance of rim damage. It is a slower method but a great alternative. The more zip-ties you put around the tire, the easier it is.
I have mounted the stiffest sidewall tires using this method with a maximum of 12 zip-ties set at the hours of a clock face. With 12 zip-ties, the tire will literally just fall onto the rim! I love watching people’s jaws hit the floor when I do it in front if them. Sometimes I can just hold the tire in the air above the rim and literally drop it from 2-3 feet above and it just plops right onto the wheel!
It also works way more better if you put the tire in the direct sunlight and get her really as hot as you can. Hot tires are pliable while cold ones are much more rigid!
If you really want to change out your own tires, front or back, after you do it in your garage 1 time with this method, you’ll never go back to anything else. I guarantee it!
Honestly, quality professional tire machines (mine are italian and quite sophisticated) are more useful in a workshop environment where I would change out nearly 1000 tires every riding season. I could shod new tires in about 60 seconds on a rim. The speed and consistency made the outlay of cash, practical. For the home mechanics, it’s a waste of money.
I’ve had many customers who I showed the zip-tie method who then just cursed up a storm at themselves because they had bought a $1,800 No-Mar tire changer they quite honestly, did not need at all, and only would use a few times in many years.
Oh, and yes, you can use the exact same method to remove a tire. It takes a little more time and effort to thread the zip-ties around a tire on a rim, but it sure beats the hell out of tire iron spoons!
A 9-Step Guide To Zip Tie Motorcycle Tire Change: Time To Zip It Up!
Changing tires on your bike sounds like a tough job, except that it isn't with the zip tie method! Here's a full guide that won't have you sweat and curse too much.
motorbikesecure.com
Last edited:
You need to replace those tires immediately. Once over 5 years old, their compound deteriorates and require replacement.Summary:
My 2014 C14 is new to me. It is 10 years old and I got it last fall with 2000 miles on it with original rubber - 2513 and 2213 dated tires. The bike was kept inside and barely ridden. That would be 11 year old tires with now 5800 miles on the bike. I have extra options in tire brand selection if I go to a 180/65 (Michelins would be in the data set) or I can stay with 200/60 and still have great options. The tire wear looks similar to some of the pics in this thread. Now time to put in an order. Good thread from top to bottom; very helpful.
That is an unusual rig. If it doesn't work well for you try a No-Mar machine. Not cheap, but well designed. I use a manual Coates machine I picked up used. I do use the No-Mar bead breaker attachment for the Coates so I don't scratch rims, and for some wheels with a very shallow dish I use the No-Mar bar instead of the Coates bar.
Mine is only two years old and has paid for itself already......