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V85TT Evap and Tip Info

Ok so having some trouble after the EVAP and TIP mod. Here’s the info on what I did,

I removed all the internals of the TIP, then place hose back on the LHS of the canister as original and to fuel tank. I then removed the RHS hose completely from the canister, disconnected the hose from the electronic valve (both sides) and plugged that hose to TB. I am now getting the engine light on which when it idles (fine when running at pace) which alarm comes on and revs to 2k rpm…have I done it wrong????
 
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57E09A18 B46C 4234 9859 02334E9849D3 BAEC0F4B E122 40E3 B8E2 0D0286EA1A4B Pics of what I have done…1st pic shows the elec valve in situ still plugged in and Ofcoarse once the tank goes on the line with TIP goes to LHS of the canister to tank as standard- this right???? and 2nd pic shows the line going to manifold cut and blocked.
 
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Warnzie said:
Ok so having some trouble after the EVAP and TIP mod. Here’s the info on what I did,

I removed all the internals of the TIP, then place hose back on the LHS of the canister as original. I then removed the RHS hose completely from the canister, disconnected the hose from the electronic valve (both sides) and plugged that hose to TB. I am now getting the engine light on which when it idles (fine when running at pace) which alarm comes on and revs to 2k rpm…have I done it wrong????
Click to expand...
Ok found my problem here, my own doing🙈 a M6 Allen head bolt fitted perfectly, but when I used a zip tie to hold it in, it looks like a did a bit tight and without realizing made the bolt slightly cocked which would of allowed a vacuum leak. All sorted now and I let idle for about 5mins and no “national disaster” alerts came up so think we solved it😉👍 always feel like a 🍆 when these things happen, but, there’s no such thing as mistakes, just a learning experience. But would love to know if the tip valve line (gutted) can still go to the LHS of the cannister?
 
sorry for all my posts here on this...Im a first time Guzzi owner so a little new for me...I can see that it would be best to run the fuel line with the TIP Valve (gutted) to atmosphere somewhere down the bike incase fuel did come out of here, and basically leave the charcoal canister in situ. Cap the 2 ends of the Bosch valve with vacuum caps for presentation:makeup:, and ofcoarse plug the TB line....may I ask has anyone without issues just used a vacuum cap for the TB line pole on the TB? ofcoarse anywhere snipped and plugged on this line will work but for neatness it would look better;) Thanks for putting up with me thus far and look forward to your replies.
 
MHaas said:
Late to the party. Just wrapped up a filler neck mod. Now addressing the EVAP can.
Capped the Manifold easy enough. Thinking capping both sides of the "gate valve" in the vacuum line off the canister.
Will that make the computer mad? I too covet the space the canister dwells. View attachment 26394
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Is there a known value resistor that can be used at this plug in order to eliminate this purge valve?
 
I did a full canister delete and ran the breather to the ground. As well as the crank vent hose. Both have auxiliary outlets into the intake. Throttle response and power band feels smoother to me, but not a big difference. No issues so far. Bike is at 33k miles.
 
I have a 2020 V85TT and it is my understanding that there should be a diagram showing the hose routing for the evaporator system. It should be located on the bottom of the seat pan. Mine does not have the stock seat, so no diagram. Would someone please be kind enough to take a picture and post it please. If there is more than one please do both. Remember it is for a 2020 V85TT.

thanks
 
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2020 E4.

IMG-20230821-165435034.jpg
 
I think it's the other line. In post 19 of this thread Todd said: "You need to gut the tip valve, and plug the line off of the intake manifold. The rest of the system can stay in place."

tip valve = Pressure valve in that diagram. The other line (the one going from can to engine) seems to be the one.
 
GTM® said:
You need to gut the tip valve, and plug the line off of the intake manifold. The rest of the system can stay in place.
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I must be an idiot. I have read and reread these posts a dozen times. do I plug both ends of the line off of the intake manifold?
 
Hey Frost, Unless I have missed something..... after rereading this thread it seems simple.

You pry apart the tip over valve and remove whatever is inside and then snap it back together and you are done with that (side) line.

On the other (side) line you simply remove or cut the line from the canister the canister can be left open to the air no plugging needed but the line leading away to the maniold needs to be plugged. Nothing else else needs to be done at this point except put the tank on and button up. That is my take I could be wrong.
 
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yrunvs, thanks for responding. I have read and reread and still have no clear understanding. I get the valve gut but it is not clear to me where to cut and plug, before or after the bosch plug that leads to the intake and if the hose is cut as suggested, which end is plugged or both?
 
Frostbitten said:
yrunvs, thanks for responding. I have read and reread and still have no clear understanding. I get the valve gut but it is not clear to me where to cut and plug, before or after the bosch plug that leads to the intake and if the hose is cut as suggested, which end is plugged or both?
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The first post of this thread is now revised.
 
I take it pre E5 there was no Bosch valve and my post #74 is correct but with the E5 (with the bosch valve) you cut below/after the B valve and plug the line leading away and then leave the B valve/cut stub open?
 
yrunvs said:
I take it pre E5 there was no Bosch valve and my post #74 is correct but with the E5 (with the bosch valve) you cut below/after the B valve and plug the line leading away and then leave the B valve/cut stub open?
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I am not an english major and I am no longer confused because GTM has clarified where to cut and plug, but reread your comment, "you cut below/after the B valve...."
 
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